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These past few weeks can be summed up as an epic attempt to fill our freezer with as much ready-to-eat food as possible. I’ve frozen unbaked scones in little zip-top bags. I’ve filled about ten containers with Persian beef-rice stew and carrot-ginger soup and plenty of chicken stock. I’ve even baked and frozen whole loaf cakes, to defrost for unexpected company. A couple hours this morning and a long day in a low oven produced a batch of Lisa Fain’s chili, which is officially in the freezer.  Still on the cooking wishlist: This lovely eggplant tagine from Blue Apron, which my friend Rachel raved about and for which I have procured all the ingredients. (Stay in, baby, just a little bit longer!). Previously on the wishlist: cookie dough (rolled into balls and frozen unbaked, you know, for emergencies). It was a nice-to-have, but then I woke up at 5 and couldn’t fall back asleep and, well, the cookie dough happened. Thanks, kiddo.

But the whole cook-to-fill-the-freezer thing isn’t new. In truth, my attempts to fill our pantry began back in late summer, when I got to sneak a peek at the galleys of my dear friend Cathy’s book.

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Do you know Cathy? She is Mrs. Wheelbarrow, canner, cheesemaker, charcuterie queen, and general goddess of the larder. She was one of the earliest contributors to my beloved Food52, and has penned some of my favorite recipes on the site. She teaches cooking classes out of her home, where I’ve learned to make canned tomatoes, salsa, and all sorts of other canned goodies, as well as goat cheese, feta, and even Camembert. She’s also a hostess extraordinaire, and I’ve been lucky enough to attend many wonderful parties courtesy of her and her husband, Dennis.

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Now, after years of blogging, posting on Food52, and writing for Washington Post, New York Times, and more, Cathy’s finally got her own corner of the universe: a book, Mrs. Wheelbarrow’s Practical Pantry.

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Apple-Cheddar Scones with Sage

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Since this pregnancy, I’ve taken a rather uncanny – you might call it obsessive – interest in apples. I buy them by the bushel, which is silly when you consider that we’re still only two of us (excluding the wee thing) and my fridge isn’t even regulation-size. But it’s true: I buy all of the apples, often seconds, still: there are never enough.

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I’ve been a Honeycrisp girl for the past couple years, but this fall, I think I overdid it. Now I’ve taken up with the Mutsus and the Jonagolds: they’re crisp, sweet, and still plenty tart. I’m hooked.

I hauled home a batch last Sunday without remembering the drawer full of apples in the fridge, an occurrence not uncommon for me these days. And if you’re with me – and I’m thinking you are, because, well, you’re here – you know that the most logical solution to this so-called problem is to spend a bit of time baking up a batch of apple-cheddar scones. Of course.

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Easier Rugelach

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Growing up, toward the end of Saturday morning services, we kids would lurk in the social hall of the synagogue, near the refreshments. Ostensibly, we were there to help set up. In actuality, about 5% of our effort went to helping out, while a round 95% we spent angling to be near our favorite snacks.

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Among the universal favorites were rugelach, the flaky, jam-filled pastries that are now near-ubiquitous. (Last week, I even stumbled on savory rugelach. Sort of genius.) But at the time, they seemed special. Mostly, they seemed difficult. The first time I made them, I understood that while they aren’t hard, per se, they are quite fussy. While the dough comes together quickly,it’s the bit where you roll the dough into disks and cut it into pie slices. I end up fretting and fussing pretty hard to make sure that each skinny little pie slice you roll up doesn’t lose its fillings in the process. Also, most recipes call for apricot jam – why must it always be apricot, which is just about the least likely jam to be in my fridge? The last time I made these, I decided the recipe was overdue for some hacking.

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Nutmeg Apple Cider Doughnuts

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It’s Friday, which means it’s almost the weekend — which, in my strange wonderland, means it’s time to choose weekend cooking projects. I’ve got my eye on this lovely, meringue-topped walnut cake from Food52, and possibly homemade bagels. I’m also contemplating steeping bourbon with some apple peels, a cinnamon stick, and some star anise, for when I’m allowed to drink the stuff again.

But I’ve got a different weekend cooking project in mind for you, if you’re still shopping. In fact, it’d go very, very well alongside that bourbon I’m going to make. Or just some apple cider. Or some cold milk.  ‘Tis the season for apple cider doughnuts: They were my project last weekend and this weekend, they’re all yours.

When I got a hankering for these guys last week, I went searching around for a yeast doughnut recipe, because everyone knows yeast-risen doughnuts are superior to their cake counterparts. Turns out – and here’s proof of my goldfish cracker-sized memory – I made yeasted nutmeg doughnuts last year. They were delicious. (Make them!) But they take much more time to make, and I was nervous that between reducing the cider (key to getting a concentrated flavor) and all the rising, the doughnuts wouldn’t be ready to bring to my friends Sunday afternoon, and that’s what good friends do.

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Tuscan Kale and Chickpea Soup

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I have a (very cynical) theory that for every 10 vegetarian soup recipes out there, 9 of them had authors who sneaked in some chicken stock when no one was looking. I often read these recipes incredulously: you’re telling me your meatless soup is deep and complex, and yet it contains no miso, no tomato paste, no porcini mushrooms, no smoked anchovies – no umami whatsoever. Heck, it doesn’t even have much in the way of spices. This all seems mostly impossible.

But as I’m not coming to find, there are magical exceptions to this rule. There are owners of a certain restaurant in Brooklyn by the name of Franny’s, which I have love-love-loved for a very long time, who make pretty much everything turn to gold. They are experts at pasta and pizza; masters of crostini and of fritti, those fried bites that start a meal. Well, no surprise: it turns out, they’re pros at soup, too.

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It must have been 2005 when I first fell for shakshuka, the Israeli dish of eggs fry-poached in a spicy, oniony tomato sauce. For a few years, I obsessively sought it out at restaurants; eventually, I taught myself to make it at home. There are a few places – like the kitschily named but legit Dr. Shakshuka, in Tel Aviv – that make it consistently well: their whites are always set, their yolks perfectly runny, every time. Back when I lived in Jerusalem, there was a little cafe near my apartment that I loved, but that had a problem with runny whites in their shakshuka. It was either that or a hard yolk, and I wanted neither – so I learned to ask for my eggs “mikushkashot” – scrambled. They happily obliged, and I wound up with soft-scrambled eggs in that same punchy sauce. Don’t tell anyone, but I’ve always liked my invented version better.

At the time, I thought shakshuka was something unique that you could only find in Israel. I should have known better: nearly every wonderful “Israeli” food, from falafel to shawarma to hummus to labneh, was cribbed from another Middle Eastern culture. Shakshuka is no exception; it’s originally from North Africa, or so I understand from Google. And now, of course, it’s on trendy menus all over the country. Shakshuka has hit the big time.

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Israel isn’t the only copycat. It seems every culture has its own name and nuanced method for cooking eggs in tomatoes. There’s the classic Eggs in Purgatory (…is it a classic? I did a bit of poking for historical origins of the dish, and aside from finding several mentions of “Catholic” and “uovo in purgatorio,” I came up short), and some folks have added more chile and renamed the dish Eggs in Hell. But the version I’ve come to love more recently is called Menemen, hailing from Turkey, which is basically the hacked-up version of shakshuka I’ve been ordering and making all along. Apparently, I didn’t invent it after all. But all the good cooks steal ideas from each other, so the copycat badge is one I’m proud to wear.

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Gingerbread Apple Right-Side Up Cake

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‘Tis the season for apple picking. Or, if (ahem) you’re in denial about that certain season, and also about the veryveryimminent life changes you’re anticipating, you might spend Sunday mornings gallivanting around the farmers’ market in all-too-summery yoga clothes, enjoying the sun and stocking up on way too many “second” apples at 99 cents a pound. It’s basically just like apple picking, only lazier. Either way, you wind up with a fridge full of apples, and a sinking sensation that what looked like such an amazing bargain! is now a very real item on the to-do list: make apple stuff. Oh, it’s on your to-do list also? Welcome to the club.

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So here’s one “apple stuff” for you to make this weekend. An upside-down upside-down cake, where the upside-down bit is left right where it started. Can we call it a right-side up cake? Good. Don’t worry: there’s caramel involved. And the cake part isn’t anything to scoff at, either: it’s a beautifully feathery, well-spiced gingerbread that I can see baking up on its own in a loaf pan and serving with tea.

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Okra Curry

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A long while back, I got into a major Indian food kick. I made dosas (but really, really good dosas), eggplant curry, sambar, mushroom muttar curry, and more. I bought and made chutneys and stocked way too much ghee and ate as much Indian food as I could get my hands on.

Summer seems to call for a hiatus from piping hot bowls of curry, but now that fall has arrived, I’m back on the bandwagon. It’s still early for long-cooked food, but this okra comes together quickly and tastes fresh – the perfect transition into September.

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